North to Ucluelet

Two nights ago we anchored in a primeval lagoon again guarded by a tricky entrance. Save a few kayakers we believed ourselves to be the only inhabitants. The tree moss was eerie growing in the shape of animals descending from trees…six raccoons diving for the water….a bear outstretched on a limb above an ancient fishing weir. The First Nation People had built a two-tiered rock formation to trap fish as the tide ebbed. Under an overhang the stain of ancient smoke and the shell midden remained. No spirits disturbed our peace during the quiet of the night.

We headed for Ucluelet. Not trusting our beginner’s luck with our 35 lb fish, we sought the advice of a fishing expert in Ucluelet. Glenn Kaczmar was more than helpful. The knowledge and his forty years of experience in these waters was impressive. He is such a nice person! If you choose not to buy a boat and want to fish in this area, he is recommended for charters without reservation. Glenn can be reached at 250.726.5032 or his toll free number is 877.871.8771. Although the fish were finicky today, we were not skunked. Thank you, Glenn.

Tonight the fog moves in on little cat paws and the Ucluelet fog horn mourns. We are in Fogust. Fog has always been a navigational hazard on this coast. In the old times sea captains sounded for the bottom and calculated their speed. At times Barkley Sound was indistinguishable from the entrance to the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Mistakes were costly. It is said that ghost ships sail these coasts but we have yet to sight one.

Whales were with us both today and yesterday surfacing 30 feet from the boat. Whales can hear our engines but sail boats are silent. This can be a difficulty as our friend, Craig, can attest. A whale destroyed his rudder and prop shaft system requiring unexpected repairs in Cairns, Australia.

I am now required to obtain the captain’s authorization to bring books aboard. Doug made some flimsy excuse about weight but it has more to do with my very own copy of Edible Seaweed: Identification and Recipes. Even reheated my beach asparagus was not applauded. Perhaps the kelp salad will be better.