Fjiords, Baby Seals and Totems

Fjiordland is a marine park north of Bella Bella framed by high granite cliffs sculpted by glaciers and touched by history. Waterfalls are everywhere. We cruised up Kynoch Inlet and transited a small tidal rapid and spent the night as the sole human inhabitants. The next morning we traveled north through Mussel Inlet where Captain Vancouver had dispatched his men up Mussel Inlet on the endless search for a way through from the West Coast to the East Coast. The crew gathered mussels for dinner not knowing they were contaminated with paralytic shellfish poisoning (red tide). Many men were ill and one died. As a result the cove at the end of Mussel Inlet is named Poison Cove.


Early the next morning at Windy Bay anchorage Doug captured an amazing picture. We were anchored close shore. The seals that had played the night before hauled out on the rocks. First the big male, next the female who quickly rolled on her side. Their baby quickly followed and began his breakfast. Simply amazing.












Looking out toward the Pacific Ocean from the Seaforth Channel three watchers once stood. Their origins remain a mystery. Perhaps they stood watch for a Haida war party coming from the north. One still stands, one is no more and one watcher sleeps.